Medium garnet with clear edges. Initial clean-laundry floral and over-ripe orange turns first to Comstock cherry filling and match-head for direction before settling on smokey ship’s wood, cream-cheese frosting and coriander. A solid core of opulent fruit continually rises out of the glass no matter what stage of breathing, tinged with strong mountain woodsy and volcanic overtones.
In the mouth shrill acidity immediately yanks the vivid fruit back from the precipice of over-ripeness. This is a POWERHOUSE Pinot–easily one of the most structured I have had this year–but nowhere is the citrus thinness plaguing many in this category. The rich caramel fruit powers on steadfastly against the unrelenting acid with a background of sweet oak until the whole thing rolls itself into boughs and boughs of dark green tannin. And this is DECIDEDLY tannic–bitter and chewy with a bit of alcohol visible. Then you smell it again, and the whole package turns into this voluptuous creature again.
This Pinot Noir is unlike anything you have had in some time. It takes layers of earth and barnyard to ethereal levels alongside disgustingly rich fruit and then equalizes everything with a Burgundian framework of equally complex structure. It changes so drastically across the full dimension of just one sip it is intimidating to keep up. This is NOT a wine you pour yourself a glass of and merely drink. Hell, I don’t even think I could READ while sipping this. It demands your attention, sits you down and slaps you across the face, then smothers you with kisses. Such a refreshing wine.
Gone are the root-beers of SMV and the Kool-aids of Carneros. Forget the ripe musk of RRV and the root-bound astringency of AV. Somewhere between the Range-Rover Santa Rita Hills, the FJ40 Santa Lucia Highlands and the Subaru of Oregon, this Sonoma Mountain exists on a plane no one can touch. Don’t talk to me about Pinot until you have had this wine.
2013 LA PITCHOUNE Pinot noir Van Der Kamp Sonoma Mt. 14.2