A Goldilocks of cheap cab: big boysenberry and chocolate cake but not a tincture reeking of lab and MP. Dirty and earthy enough to stay grounded. Mint salt-water taffy and Charleston Chew over the middle–a welcome thin-ness–prove a savory relationship with entry-level wines. Wracking, unsophisticated tannin comes galloping in to seal everything off in grand not-too-much/not-too-little style. Come’on son! 25-dollar Napa Cab pullin out all the stops and punchin holes in targets far above its PP. Just enough new-world concentration and just enough old-school backbone. Wow what a fabulous 13.
2013 GIRARD Cabernet Sauvignon Napa Valley 14.5
Stephen McConnell 