Light garnet softening out to dusty amber-rose. Funky funky dirrrrrty green brush scrapings on grainy shit. Swollen drainage during a first storm, roiling muddy and carrying a summer’s worth of city residue to the sea. Salty, warm preserved meats hung with dry cheeses, apricot preserves and quince paste. Bow rosin and taut horsehair actually contribute a *clean* angle on the nose, pulling the merde up, brightening and polishing the whole package–until you swirl again, and the whole beauty that is earthy, scandalous, sexy Pinot starts up afresh.
I just lost 1000 followers. And they’re the followers I want to lose. If you don’t like the way I talk about Pinot, then you shouldn’t be hanging around. “Good burgundy smelleth of shit,” and if you are drinking Pinot which has none of these nuances, you’re drinking junk. And don’t let ‘Pure, Clean, Ripe, No-Vegetal, Brett-free’ winemaker tell you these are flaws. Fortunately, I have a following who appreciate these points and respect the brilliance of Pinot. But, there’s always a mommy-blogger or #chardonnYAY groupie in the crowd who is going, “Whaaaaa? That sounds like HORRIBLE wine!”
In the mouth, bright while maintaining the dusky dried-petal nuances visible in the nose. More tautness–this time in the form of cranberry and pie cherry–courses over the tongue, bitter and sharp: stinging-nettle and pine-pitch. I tiny heat introduces the robust tannin, turning quickly to a clawing, aching, lingering finish of bitter burn.
This is a baby, filled with the typical magic I have come to expect in Etienne Terlinden’s wines. Dark luscious fruit encapsulates every aspect of this thing from the first sniff FAR into the finish. These wines always drink FAR beyond their price-point, and the best part: they are INTERESTING. But be warned: This is not root-beer or lollipop Pinot. This is the real dealio.
2012 SUMMERLAND Pinot Noir Solomon Hills Santa Maria Valley Santa Barbara Co. 13.9