Super-pale canary. Strong petrol and flour–stone ground and granary fresh. Hard-hitting cut flowers–hairy stems and all–mingle with watermelon-rind and banana peel over spicy liliquoi and grated Parmesan. I can’t even remember the last time I had a Riesling from Australia. I pretty much don’t drink wines from teutonic-bottles outside of a couple of areas in the world. I have to be honest–even though the producer has a stellar pedigree–I was NOT expecting to be blown away. WOW was I wrong. This is heavy-hitter dry Riesling. I’m going to peg it at a full-bodied 12-5, maybe even 13-oh. In the mouth, tight, beautiful razor-sharp wet paper and honeydew before an onslaught of acid turns the whole thing Sprite-lemon-lime against the turmoil of motor-oil tannins. Roasted almond and blood, pear-sauce and DG, everything teetering on a shrieking brilliancy in the finish still managing to be buttery. I’m in love.
2015 FRANKLAND ESTATE Riesling Isolation Ridge Western Australia 12.5
Stephen McConnell 