Near: Shoe polish sherry flat sweet harsh, not oxidized but with a bitter high note in the finish of Home Depot pesticide aisle. It actually does NOT taste like a red wine which has been cooked or stored way too long. It tastes and smells like a decent sherry, round and nutty. Brown brown brown in the glass, with heavy sediment.
Far: The color on this one is far ‘redder’, but sill bricking horribly. Exactly 50% less gone, and tasting more like wine–and not madeira–makes for a double-edged sword: it’s not candied and sweet like the sherry version above, but instead you can see the ghastly remnants of fruit–shrill shells of where it was and harsh tannins backing its non-existence up. Sweet and bitter at the same time. A textbook wine stored way too long, which just makes me shake my head. I LOVE this producer and negociant. I can’t REMEMBER the last time I disliked one of his wines. This–after only 8 years–is unbelievable.
Number 3: This one has the best color and is the best of the three. I don’t know how many more of these I have left I’m obviously seriously hoping at this juncture that these are my last three but they’re kind of scattered around the cellar so… This one smells like fresh cut hay and cherry reduction and a little Pine-Sol. Nothing–no matter how ‘villages’ or *coarse* Franc Sud–should taste like this at only 8 years old. This is just wrong. All three of these wines are off the spectrum. These wines were obviously either cooked before I got them or they just never had it in them.
This is NOT going to shake my love for Gerard Bertrand–I’ve had way too long of an affair with him to let something like this come between us–but he definitely gets an asterisk and I will be more careful in the future.
2008 GÉRARD BERTRAND Grenache/Syrah/Carignan ‘Grand Terroir’ Tautavel France-Sud France 14.0