Sinor Language

Deep deep purple ruby with a razor of clear for an edge.  Completely glass-staining and substantial legs.  Thick green briary nose crammed with weeds, wet bark and frosting; an oil-slick on pond-water, greasy and visceral but smart.  Pungent fruit–fresh blueberry and sage, milky green tea and cigar–blends effortlessly with the subtle alcohol.

Sinor makes two Syrahs from the cool-climate Bassi Vineyard in Avila Beach: a White and Black label with at least a full point of alcohol between them.  Regular readers of mine will understand I yanked the lower-proof one open first and, quite honestly, was kinda dreading getting to this one.  OK, “dreading” is the wrong word.  More like: expecting an eye-rolling moment because the concentration and hi-alcohol were going to be so prevalent it would be of a style hard for me to enjoy.  I was completely wrong.  This is beautiful wine.

In the mouth, chewy, mind-numbingly rich fruit, but not flabby or unctuous.  Brilliant acid co-joins everything, bringing that seamless zenith of concentration only a few producers of hi-proof Syrah have mastered.  Light cherry is dedicated to the attack and after that, the entire palate is a shell-shocked orgasmic jack-hammer of structure.  While the cigar and tar is dripping lingering vestiges of maraschino on the sides of the tongue, the mid-palate is awash with turbulent young tannin, seeking out every crevice in an attempt to hammer this wine home.  No alcohol burn, just a tiny pepper against rich, sweet tannin.  Yes, sweet tannin.  You read that right.

This guy is one of the Central Coast OG, with his hand in a plethora of labels you’ve enjoyed in the past 30 years.  Find this stuff.

2014 SINOR-LA VALLEE ‘Black Label’ Syrah Bassi Ranch Avila Beach San Luis Obispo 15.9

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