Ridiculously funky on opening, even at 48°F. Massive barnyard is compelling and enjoyable, but blows off almost instantly, leaving you with an *OMG where did that go?* moment. It is replaced by sweet melon and kiwi fruit, delicate but with a teensy slather of oak bringing up a vanilla toastiness to complement and deepen the light texture of the fruit.
In the mouth, (now at a much more responsible 54°F) mineral and acid do double-time to sharpen and invigorate the floral and unsalted butter framing the stewwed-apple and hibiscus fruit. Unctuous bitter-lemon slowly grows in the finish, never capping things off with tannin *completely*, but allowing the memory of the entire experience to linger.
A beautiful Chardonnay, hitting on so many Chablis levels and thumbing its nose at New World pillars of design. It’s like Petite Chablis meets California. Which on paper might just be the world’s most perfect Chardonnay.
2013 VELVET BEE Chardonnay Rita’s Crown/Radian Vineyard Santa Rita Hills California 14.44