Under The Gun

Merciless clear canary, so young and vibrant.  Grassy nose of earth and funk not showing too much absolute Gewurtz beauty, but more of a Riesling focus.  Still, there are smatterings of floral and heady tropical which spells the magic of this variety.  A slight gaseous barnyard gives direction to an out-of-the-ordinary brilliance no one can resist.  It is not petrol, as is fairly common, but a nascent juniper and briar.

My opinions on dry New World Gewürztraminer are well-documented on these pages.  I have my bevy of favorites, but ALL have disappointed me in recent years and I constantly look for new producers and re-visit stalwart makers of this variety.  I LOVE Gewurtz. I lke it better than Riesling and Gruner and everything else bottled in these-shaped-bottles combined. I feel as though in past years Gewurtz-producers strove for the fruity–almost sweet–tropical zenith of this grape and in recent years it seems all my favorite producers have toned it down a bit to align with the hipster-somm ideal of Riesling. I am not saying I dislike this direction, and maybe my tastes are shifting, but the last few I have tasted–even from my long-term favorites producers–have been lean and far crisper than I remember from the 80’s and 90’s. Again, I am not sad with this direction. And I mean not to disparage this wine.  It is lovely. It’s just the line between Gewurtz and Riesling used to be marked, and now it is blurred.

In the mouth, oily watery attacks, with acid and beautiful granny smith and lilikoi fruit garnering second fiddle.  Fairly vapid throughout the mouth-feel, a tannic structure gains foothold late-middle and developes to full-dry on finish.  Not lush, and not brilliantly-fruited, it is only far into the finish the glory of this grape shows itself, amid a bit of heat and distinct dryness. And maybe that is the beauty of Gewürztraminer.

2015 GUNDLACH BUNDSHU Gewürztraminer Sonoma Coast Sonoma County California 14.3


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