House Bets On Donc

Dense medium ruby with a sliver edge. Heavy sediment. Big rambly nose of dusty rose, maple sugar and pine pitch over bright pomegranate fruit with a heavy influence on the seeds. Ripe and roiling in old-world funk, a bright flowery over-rides any tendencies for pruney. Heady and concentrated, filling every crevice with its muddy brilliance.

I love Carignane. Always have, always will.  I love the bright flowery abilities and fresh fruit alongside what often can be fairly serious structure. It is kinda like Petite Sirah–often viewed (and made in a style that is) a dark dense robust tannic syrup–in the more collective interpretations, a lovely fruity concoction.  THis is one of those interpretations.

In the mouth, extreme mineral and acid bite early, creating and almost-spritz notion on the edges of the tongue.  Concentrated boysenberry and an alcoholic-tinged strawberry dump loads on everything, pulling in that quintessential ‘green-wine’ texture briefly before unloading everything in a wash of coffee-grounds and citrus. The ‘natural wine’ or ‘raw wine’ influences of this brand are apparent in the late-middle and finish, where all the yummy things in this grape nobody has fucked with come screaming out.

This is a wine unthrottled, running full-bore in any direction it wants and the result is surprisingly focused.

2015 DONKEY & GOAT Carignane Testa Mendocino North Coast 12.7

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