Clear medium ruby with a wide pink edge. Bone-jarring briar and muddy skin carried on ridiculous match-head, cedar box and dark chocolate caramel nougat. Shrill warm grapefruit creates a mineralific nasal-cleanser, but alcohol is not omnipresent. It’s all very warm but bright and spiked yet elegantly contained, a juxtaposition not surprising considering the nucleus of fruit, youthful and spritely: Chinon-fresh, Gamay-fresh, but maintaining a core of oily warm spirit.

Yet another in a fascinating recent line of new Lodi brands shooting for the stars. Gone is the pruney reduction of yesteryear’s hi-test concoctions, and in its place is vibrant fruit and definite balance. This one I do not think is particularly low-alcohol–I am guessing very high 14’s–and the Euro-funk, spicy fruit and acid make it a package I can’t wait to taste.

In the mouth, thinner and lighter than expected. Clean and more brightness, with cherry and pomegranate heading up a freight train of sandpaper and gravel. A little alcohol burn kicks in late–nearly obfuscated by tannin.

This thing is effortlessly yummy.

2014 FIELDS FAMILY WINES Tempranillo Lot 13 Vineyard Lodi California 14.9

www.fieldsfamilywines.com