Brilliant medium ruby, out to abrupt pink edges. Big fruit-FWD nose, plush with plump cherry and plum breathes out to a steely funk, weedy and nice with a little smoky edge, lending a certain sincerity to a wine which–at first thought–seemed almost frivolous.

This is a fun label from Paul Frankel of Sculpterra, quite bargain priced and readily available–and quite shocking when you start doing the math on it. All estate fruit, from a block producing 3 ton/acre, hand harvested, barrel aged, 10% new oak, and under 1000 cases. Dedicated to the Mexican vineyard workers–and Medical Missions to Mexico, it is bottled under screw-top and with a catchy label for 20 bucks. It is not designed to be a blockbuster cab, it drinks fun and easily but with plenty of substance.

In the mouth, not overwhelming–something which pops up fairly often in Paso Cabs. Beautiful little minty fruit dances light and easy on the tongue. It is so bright, lively and spicy, it is tempting to call it “thin”–and it kinda is, by Paso standards–but over the middle a dark chewiness packed with black walnut, bark tea and incredible acidity bring full spectrum to the playful fruit and a surprising complement of tannin wraps things up.

A very pretty wine, for a bargain price, without ridiculous concentration or alcohol–just a lovely drinker.

2015 HÉROE Cabernet Sauvignon Paso Robles California 13.4

sculpterra.com/heroe