Clear with a hint of yellow, picking up and reflecting any color in its wash. Grimy fruit, edgy with antique shops of velveteen furniture and loud clocks ticking off each phase of earth and mineral and crisp bite, mountain air and plum cream-soda.

I don’t know what the story is on this compilation, but these are two names that cause little heart palpitations when you see them on a label and are a fan of some of the loveliness pouring out of Lodi lately. And here they are together. See now, I was hard on a couple hipster whites last week–and I get a bunch of grief for doing so. I get a lot of plaudits–but of course I get a lot of grief too. But: you drink these things, and you’re just like, “Why?” It’s not What? or Where? or How?–I mean, we KNOW all that–it’s just Why? Why do you feel compelled to make a white wine like that? White wine’s supposed to be GOOD. It’s supposed to have fruit. It should have a zangy bite. It should have enough of both to play the sweet songs of sugar in your mind, and it should be clean. This wine has all of that. Easily. Effortlessly. Those wines had none of that. And they came with a pedigree of contemplation, which never fails to bring the eye-rolls.

In the mouth, raspberry bright clean full fruit, richening to plum and nectarine while that walnut-shell and tea-leaf astringency slowly creeps in, balancing and uplifting. Wet concrete and cedar shavings play hop-scotch with the fruit and acid, rounding out and blowing the mouth-feel into chard, viogner, or marsanne zip-codes, even though this has all the delicacy of a grenache-blanc.

2016 TWO SHEPHERDS/FIELDS FAMILY WINES Grenache Blanc RRV/Lodi California 13.4

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