Button Head

Nice creamy hazy yellow. Fresh-fruit peach and nectarine, alive with fruit-sugar and natural-smelling: un-processed into bouquets of deeply fermented layers, but rather cider-smelling; bright stewed apple and pear. Secondary also is a lively *fermented* smell, alive and fresh and burnished with must and alcohol.

Is this a good time to talk about Natural Wine? No, of course not. It’s never a good time. If you like it, great: enjoy the fuck out of it and shut up. If it’s not your thing, move the fuck on and shut up about it. Nobody wants to talk about it. Nobody wants to hear YOU talk about it. Well, a couple really obnoxious people in Silver Lake want to, but every day they dig themselves deeper and deeper into a hole of insignificance. But keep chugging from that bottle–the defacto TRADEMARK of the true Natural Wine aficionado–it makes you look important. Maybe glasses are un-natural. Maybe you just don’t want to engage any olfactory mechanisms with a number of things Amy Atwood sells. For them, chugging from bottle is perfect. I love natural wine–as un-definable as that term is. I prefer “NATURAL-ER wine”, but more importantly, I don’t talk about it.

In the mouth, a cool rumbly stream of beauty flows over the tongue. Crisp and surprisingly weighty, it brings a concentrated fruity density to a spritely liquid which dances light-heartedly all over your face. The cider-y nuance never pops up on the palate–it stops abruptly at the nose–this is ALL WINE and nicely-done wine. More pear-sauce climbs into the finish, and as rich as it is: a perfect spot of tannin balances things out. This wine is so much yum. I might just chug it out of the bottle.

2016 DEUX PUNX ‘Dear You’ White Wine Sumu Kaw Vineyard El Dorado California 12.5


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