White Night

Deep golden canary with endless mousse. Unmistakably Champagne, but maple syrup and grapefruit cloud the yeasty bread and marzipan of the nose, making it candied headiness, based in thick plain tapioca. Beautiful damp cardboard and root-vegetable earthiness comes out of the perfectly austerely-fruited but somewhat buttery wine. Remember, this is Blanc de Blancs, elegant and luxurious, calm and sophisticated without explanation.

In the mouth, full and round from the get-go. No, this might not blast you with plum and strawberry like a Blanc de Noir, but it more than makes up for it in luxury–just thick dripping nectar. Bright and spritzy on the tongue, but not fizzy or sharp–just pure acid combined with still-tiny bubbles pouring from origins on a map at the bottom of the glass–towns too small to observe with the naked eye. Cantaloupe and yam rule the roost here, and the crushed velvet of theatre seats and rosined horse-hair bring well-oiled speechlessness to a scene apparently somber and rich, but inside sparkles and tigers and dragons and shit. Vanilla ice cream and the bee-sting of papaya with the butterfly of kiwi introduce the tin-can finish–lingering and where all the fruit has been hiding. Suddenly: it’s dessert–but a dessert that could start a fire.

NV PETIT & BAJAN Blanc De Blancs ‘Nuit Blanche’ Brut Grand Cru Champagne France 12.0 4g/l


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