A briar-mint nose STRONGER than the fruit–a very interesting nose for a Zin imussssay. Dirty and wood-ridden, a fat chunk of cellar floor cranks up the old-world funk: but the plump California Zinfandel is an interesting juxtaposition behind it. Gobs of green tertiary, it smells a bit beyond its printed age.
I discovered these wines in Duncan’s Mill up the coast many years ago. It always showed up in little Mom and Pop groceries here and there and the winery was kind enough to reach out when I expressed interest. These are well-made wines, the bang for the buck is incredible, and the alcohols are not out of control.
In the mouth, a sizzly strip of tangy zip streaks across the tongue, parting cool waves of bright cherry and laying down a fat baseline of proper Zinfandel–albeit a bit on the sharp side of the norm. I’M NOT COMPLAINING! All that aged nuance plays wack-a-mole with considerably huskier plum and blackberry in the postlude, and very little tannin but a sharp citrus remains.
A very interesting Zin at 6 years. Rustic, definitely. Delightful, arguable. Interesting, assuredly.
20132 WILD HOG VINEYARDS Zinfandel Nova Vineyard Lake County 14.5
Stephen McConnell 