Light ruby with an abrupt edge. Really slow getting going in the nose. Ridiculously closed in. Have you ever decanted a pinot? I just did. Gradually, a pretty fruit emerges, delicately angelic, watered-down dark cherry, a glimmer of cacao nibs, and a soft vegetal minerality cloaked in old-fashioned hard candy. A deceptive funk creeps in late-breathing, balanced with briar and the slightest hint of alcohol.

In the mouth, clear, calm, clean-ness–crystal-light, thin and bright, tiny cautious kisses of tart fruit are planted all over your face. Just the prettiest, prettiest little smoky briar-tinged rose-petal fruit you ever did done seen. Green and edgy in the finish, multiple visits compound the flavors, increasing the impression.

This is a beautiful-smelling–and tasting–Pinot, just don’t expect some big ‘ol extracted bruiser to come leaping out of the glass at you. This isn’t that wine. This is silk and magic and finesse and coy complexity.

2015 WAITS-MAST Pinot noir Wentzel VYD Anderson Valley Mendocino Co. 13.2

waitsmast.com