Hakuna Matela

Multi-vitamin, rose-hip and Thai tea claim banana-mango dominance over cellar floor and curry-comb. A muffin-top of baby fat bulges joyously from the bikini, easing you into the rusty truck-bed of tannins, wet sawdust and straw.

Remember that Plavac Mali I posted a few days ago from Croatia? Well, THIS is exactly how I expected THAT wine to be. That one turned out to be a plush, clean modern wine, and this one is a wonderful rustic spritzy natural beauty with a little garnet around the edges and a shock of sediment, brilliantly acidic, perfectly barnyard, a plummy ripeness so perfectly “Zinfandel” balanced precariously atop a mound of jagged rocks and prickly briar.

2015 VINA MATELA Zinfandel Crljenak Kastelanski Upper Dalmatia Croatia 14.0

topochines.com

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