Clear medium ruby with wide edges showing almost all pink but if you zoom in far enough and stare a little too hard, you might convince yourself you see nipple of brick. Clean nose sullied by sage, mulled wine, muddy road, latex, elderberry and pretty pretty pink flowers that forgot Valentine’s is over and swells and swells with each swirl like you did after dinner last night.

Acidic and a little too structured for its age, there literally IS no tertiary, a raspy mouthfeel entirely too bright and smart for its own good. Light nectarine and zitrusy cherry, fruit thin but not entirely vapid, just almost lost in the spice, mild heat and tannin.

This is NOT a huge wine. This is not a concentrated, robust, oaked, or even stunning wine. It gets trotted out by the bling-bros often enough alongside heavy-hitters 3 times its price and one would get the idea it is a massive, oxidative, pancake syrup of a wine.  Even the GRAN RESERVA and packaging would convince you.  But no.  If you told me it was a 2017 Contra Costa County Carignane, I’d believe you. There’s no fuckin way I’d believe it was 13 years old. Hard to say where this is headed. I’d say it’s got the balance to go at least another decade, and from watching this label, maybe another 3. Fairly clear to see why these things can go 30- 40- 50 years. Tight and light. Wish Paso and most of Napa would get this memo.

2005 BODEGAS FAUSTINO Tempranillo Rioja 13.5

bodegasfaustino.com