Bright sparkling clear with just a hint of canary. Green nose oozing with funk and fruit, saliva, sweat and sweet blood. Frozen melon and gooseberry, ripe and not shy–no austerity here. Olive oil and snow run through dirty cracks in the rock and late-breathe, more briary goodness invades, along with the still, calm, but crazed concentrated goodness beautiful wines from this part of the world can show.

FOR SALE: All my Riesling. Gently used. I’ve traded up. Won’t be needed anymore. Like new. Always garaged. Factory serviced. Never driven in rain. OK, I might have been a little hard on her here and there, but she wears it well. We’ve just grown apart. Best reasonable offer.

In the mouth–see now I’m enjoying this at 60°, but I guarantee there’s not a person in America that will drink it at 60. Below 55°, it loses a lot of depth, and becomes a mere quaffer. Below 50, it feels almost spritzy in its tightly-wound acidity and slight fruit with no roundness, angular and sharp. Suit yourself–I won’t judge–but like ALL white wines, I recommend drinking it through a range of temperatures, and find where it shines for YOU. We all want something different. I’m looking for the purest expression of the grape and optimum exuberance.

Anyway… In the mouth, meager nectarine and boozy pear over a cloudy base of damp library books and butterscotch-mint. A herbaceous exploration is sent out by the main office–mostly supported by the bouquet–and it manages some progress, but retreats gradually. Dry blocks of pine and fir, stacked in the rain–on concrete–drip more of that boozy floral into the melange.

A most impressive Gruner.

2016 WEINGUT KNOLL Gruner Veltliner ‘Loibner’ Federspiel Austria 11.5


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