Impenetrable garnet. Would we say this wine is bricking? Come’on. It’s Amarone. It’s the old guard. It was bricking the day it was bottled. Nose closed-in fruit-wise. A little golden seal and wet dog, B-vitamin and nutritional yeast are about all it shows for some time. It’s a gently angsty piece–without being completely un-agreeable with the facts. Gradually a little burnt licorice coaxes itself out, clenching a spicy little chunk of Dr. Pepper tightly in its fist.
I hate Amarone. No, no no… that’s a little harsh. Sorry. I don’t *hate* Amarone. It isn’t about you. It’s about all flabby, oxidized, stewed-fruit things. Things that do a fair job as a wine, but show everything from one perspective–a perspective which may seem sweet and striving for concentration upon casual glance or general story, but several crucial items have been left completely out leaving the whole effort anti-acerbic. Oh sure, it’s a great story–especially adding ordeal and unnecessary process–but serves little more purpose than to entertain those not only without a finger on the pulse, but probably lacking one completely.
In the mouth, improvement alights. Serious heft envelopes the tongue, leading a parade of apologetic deep fruit. This wine really means well, proven by the still-biting acid and thin clarity of mouth-feel before tempering itself against your COMPLETE enjoyment by flashing daggers of tannin in the wrap-up. Giant and nutty, bouncing around a bit fruit-wise in an attempt to not alienate anyone, it brings bell-pepper and raspberry dreams forward with the tiny burn of an alcoholic injection. Maybe this is the ideal ross-test candidate: chug it don’t smell it. Maybe we’ll try that come trash-day.
I just wish it reflected the facts it KNOWS before aligning itself with the ruinous notions in the nose.
2008 CAPITEL DELLA CROSARA Corvina/Rondinella Amarone della Valpolicella Verona Veneto Italy 15.5