Black Like Me

Staining pink-black, the color you would expect from this variety at this age with this pedigree. Gut-wrenchingly herbaceous and volatile–but not in an alcoholic way–ridiculous waves of crushed fresh fruit, crazy green briar, Kalamata olive, bitter lemon and creme de menthe cascade over a wet-granite monolith.

I’m almost positive this is my first Syrah from Spanish Springs. I’ve had many Pinots, but never this variety and as soon as you see it–if you are familiar with the vineyard location–and especially coming from the style of these kids, you KNOW it is going to be a blistering little Northern Rhone number.

In the mouth, it’s actually a little rounder than I expected. It’s ripe, and pushes NOT really the sandpaper and wet steel you expect, but a rather plush initial blackberry. Oh, but don’t worry: this is not Paso Robles or Ballard Canyon, by ANY means. All that ripeness is parted quickly by that monolithic minerality–not really *earthiness* per se, headed back to licking steel, white-hot iron, tannins immediately springing through, going *reign of terror* for a moment before all that honey-drenched black fruit comes back to haunt the finish. All you’re left with is the black walnut, black tea, blackberry, black alley, blacktop, black market, brown sugar.

This is Syrah you need to drink with your Sonoma Coast and Mendocino darlings. Serious California young-guns stuff, not selling out to the alcoholic jam-bomb over-extracted tourist crowd, but also not green and stringy. I wish everybody could try this wine. It’s not expensive, either.

2017 DUNITES WINE CO Syrah Spanish Springs Edna Valley San Luis Obispo County 14.0

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