Easy, transparent ruby with oh-so-vague ruddiness towards the wide clear edge. Watery chocolate, burnt caramel, coffee cake, fresh cut grass, red bell pepper, distinct match-head struck on soggy horse-stall–all very muted, but all add distinct points of light to the otherwise Jolly Rancher nose. Gorgeous and green and edgy and ripe all at the same time–round and buttery, but with so much amazing Pinot shit going on around it, alcohol and earth bringing up the rear–lodged even heavier in barnyard.
Loyal readers know I have a rule of never buying Burgundy with “Pinot Noir” on the front label. Or back for that matter. I don’t carry the same rule quite as harshly over into Germany, and ignored it completely. I honestly do not see what benefit to marketing to Americans it carries. We all know what Spatburgunder is, and when it’s THIS good, do we need to tell people it’s Pinot?
Drinking this wine is such a reward here in California in August. Sure, I–like everyone else–go on about *summertime reds* or slightly chilled reds, but honestly, anyone who serves me at any of my local watering holes knows this is what I look for all year long. Delicate and ethereal on the tip of the tongue, tangy soon after, clear, thin–but never meager–rose petals and orange peels shred deep gouges in rocky base, beautiful little dry tannins surfacing mid-late, cleaving the dense cherry ever-so-carefully, actually buttressing and elevating it into something you want *just* ripe enough but not enough to detract from the shrill acidity and green-briar. Finish tart and wild, one last long sniff shows ridiculous barnyard now, as the grip of the finish swirls lovingly in your mouth.
Literally a PERFECT wine. An absolute 100-point wine, especially factoring in the price.
2017 WEINGUT FURST Spatburgunder ‘Tradition’ Burgstadt Germany 13.0