Almost clear with just a canary tilt. Applesauce and carrot-cake, both tiny mellow bits basking in a pear glow. Not a trace of oak, just the mellow sweet funk of neutral oxidative beauty, lovely cellar floor glow and dusty spice gently draping all that wonderful pure-chardonnay fruit becoming more and more hedonistic as this thing gently warms up.
OK, so my preferences on Chardonnay are well-established: First of all (just like Zin) it NEEDS TO SMELL AND TASTE LIKE CHARD. Also, what if I told you the Chardonnay LIKES a little oak and malo? This is why I despise SS chard (and people who say they only drink SS chardonnay). Of course I don’t like OAK & BUTTER monsters–no one does–but at the same time we don’t need to throw the baby out with the bathwater. Chardonnay isn’t black & white, and to inflict those kind of limitations on this lovely grape is insulting.
Light and bright are the words for the mouthfeel here. I drank a bunch of low-alcohol, low oak, hi-acid chards from Santa Barbara last weekend and this thing chimes in wonderfully on that theme. Chamomile and jamaica support classic Chardonnay fat–at least as fat as something this tight and svelte can possibly be. Richness turns acidic and coarsely green late-middle, cleaning the palate with sharp weedy tannin.
This is beautiful. And just the way I like them. Bright. Fresh. Acidic. Barrel-aged. And all that Chardonnay goodness glowing through in golden hues.
2018 ORDAZ FAMILY WINES Chardonnay ‘Chuy’ Moon Mt. District Sonoma 13.3