Straight-up purple-blue with wiiiiide clear edges. Roasted nutty cinnamon nutmeg nose, caramel and pastis and candied sugar rolls out of the glass. So much balmy spice, it’s hard to find the fruit underneath, but it’s there, a fat ripe jammy berry not horribly unlike Zinfandel, but with gobs of fairly fake oak plastered on top.
I’ve had three Bardolinos today, two classicos and this superiore, and after getting a little education from a shop-owner, I can see the cheap barrel-influences of this one. And this wine is cheap. They ALL are. 9-10-12 euros and all over this area, the plain Bardolinos and classicos much spicier and fruiter and this one drawing much more of its profile from barrique–or variations thereof. Not a good thing in a cheap wine. I could literally sell END-CAPS of this stuff in America to the unsophisticated palate. Here, it’s just too much yum.
In the mouth, better than the smell. Bracing acidity follows the cool jammy entry, and serious dryness in tannin and structure follow. Rich chocloate-y middle bids adieu to grippy acidity quite fast, trading it quickly for obese syrup which actually manages to play fair hardball in the finish.
I’m not as torn on this at it appears. It’s basically a tourist wine. This would be ridiculously popular in America. Did I mention I paid 12€ for it??? Sure it’s a bargain. And despite its cloak of acidity is a fairly chubby thang jacked up on oak. Not that there’s anything wrong with that.
2017 GIAROLA DI GIAROLA UMBERTO Bardolino Superiore DOCG Corvina Sangio Cab Veneto Italy 13.0