Transparent amber ruby. After a momentary austere barnyard, big smoky nose crammed with decadent berry, dank grass composting, and brown butter–savory rich and sea-side brisk–that amazing pinot ability to be dark and brooding while co-independently cool breezy. So wonderfully warm and cozy though… something I am used to seeing in SLH but only in the way more expensive echelons of Edna Valley Pinot.
This is I guess kosher wine–produced by Herzog, but it doesn’t really SAY it on it anywhere and only carries the wording NON-MESHUVAL, which I googled, and either means it was not boiled or that it was kosher right up until the moment I–gentile I am–poured it. My grasp of all things orthodox is considerably sketchy. I just like finding great wines and if I can dispel a few stereotypes along the way, so be it. Here, we are again laying out a kosher wine which is on par with some of the finest examples of the variety in the state.
In the mouth, thin buttery almond entry immediately changes its mind and decides full-blown black-cherry extravaganza will be its M.O. Briary to a fault with tinges of bitter encroaching the sides of the tongue, it still manages some of the most ridiculous ripe fruit I have seen in Edna Valley. But not TOO RIPE, thank Dog! There is a streamlined thin-ness to the middle palate, which–despite a generous poke of acid–manages pure pinot all the way, never slutty or extravagant, focused on its crisp fruity bitterness. I’m guessing this is hi-13’s, and while there is no heat, the pure perfect ripeness says it all. The chivalrous crunch of tannin leaves a memory etched in sweet nectar.
2016 EAGLE’S LANDING Pinot Noir Edna Valley San Luis Obispo Co. Central Coast California 14.0