Rim Job

Dark ruby. Fresh-cut hay field in the nose, black walnut and oolong tea all squated around a stream of fruit so piquant, so brilliant, so deep and sultry on one hand and sharp and spicy on another. Gobs of roasted meat and circus tent and tomato fuzz nowhere near outdone by the tertiary slowly creepin: a gobsmack of nougat, a chubby chocolate, a gum-arabic smoothing and fattening of all but enough spice and grainy earth to not require defib.

In the mouth, the bitter green actually hits first. I’m perfectly OK with this. I don’t necessarily need fruit to stroke me first. I always time the entrance of the two, and this one is no race. I think this is because: as good as it smells, as good as it feels, fruit is fading. Chunky and angular on the palate, tapenade flowing in mid-stroke, parting the acrid rustiness and hot citrus seed accidentally crushed. Tannin still on 11, fruit desperately trying to wade through clouds of smoke and piles of compost to get at the structure–and it does, kinda. If you have these, PLEASE drink them. They’re not immortal.

2007 GREG LINN Syrah Rim Rock Vyd. Arroyo Grande San Luis Obispo Co. Central Coast California 13.9


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