Nearly water-clear, more amber-canary, but just a breath of color. Smoky straw and a pistachio-nutty dominate a side-show of petrol and quince, flower-crown optional. Cut-grass and phone-book grant a serene cleanliness to it, streamlining the rather austere nose, coaxing it into earthy gossip. This thing is SO clean, but at the same time a savory workhorse tinged with cellar and fermentation shines through.

Originally, I was going to hit up my pals Petit Chablis or maybe even Viognier for my Cool Ranch Doritos pairing. Riesling was in my top-5, but I worried the fruitiness might create issues with the citric acid these chips are heavily dusted with. Fingering my Riesling choices, I gravitated toward some thicker, warmer selections, and came up winning here.

In the mouth, the petrol takes the stage. Typically–and I know this sensation is something you either love or hate in a Riesling or Gewurztraminer–petrol on the nose is where things end, but here the greasy fluid applies itself to the palate, sizzling on acid, bitter tannin and lemon zest. Clean and Teutonic, wretchedly dry, a green weedy fire glows from deep inside, mellowing to perfect roundness and fulfilling the finish in spectacular style.

Does Oz make better Riesling than California??? Here’s an argument for that.

2018 SERAPHIM Riesling ‘Talis’ Dookie Hills Vyd Victoria Australia 12.5

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