Sparkling goldenrod. An intense smokey carmelized fruit, dusty and tinged in green but full of ripe melon, peach pit, green tea and a verve-y sort of gravelly sediment part cellar floor and part cut grass.
In the mouth, oh man: that’s yummy. Lots going on there. I like that in my chards. Rich and round on entry, the butter cut with more of that green edge from the nose. Thin and nice, no massive oak & butter here, clean and bright and fresh, fruit stony and awash in acid that curls around under the sides of your tongue and prods you alive. Sweet applesauce and barley-malt define the mid-entry and finish, where it couples with briary richness and a bitter grunge begging for another splash.
And another splash it shall get. Rinse. Repeat. Rinse. One of those wines which bring all the chardonnay persona to the table slyly, not trying to strut, not trying to damage your precious preconceptions, but it will. Spend a few moments with this wine and FEEL chardonnay. Way down deep where it’s supposed to be. Near perfection. And I promise you this can hold up for a decade or more.
2017 ANCIENT OAKS CELLARS Chardonnay Nurmi Vyd Russian River Valley Sonoma Co. California 14.1