Pale shimmering gold. Dank dusty cellar rolls out, warm leather seats and soaked soybeans, oak with a hint of chocolate. Honeydew and kiwi give a yin-yang to the nose, light and sweetly fruited on one hand, sharp and tropically green on the other, with a grassy edge of minerality.
A bit of alcohol invades on entry, but oh so rich and decadently stuffed. Greasy, dirty shop-floor bins, spare tire and fan belt, the smudge of sweaty soil on a body so curvaceous, so golden, sharp conversation-points snagging the fabric of fruit on the way down, buttery tannins and scrappy soils arguing for systematic richness and syncopated cohesion. Alcohol visits again on the finish, but is quickly shrouded in smoky charisma.
The thing that keeps jumping out at me about this wine is the chameleon versatility of it. There’s richness of course–given the Rhone components–there’s enough smoky buttery vanilla to woo a CA chard drinker. Knowing the people behind this, it is probably neutral oak, but still: it’s there. And it is sexy. But then. There’s the almost-citrus zang to it–biting and crisp. My mind is reeling just reaching for things I want to drink this with. Frankly, I’m having it tonight with beef tenderloin. But sushi? Definitely. Thai? possibly. Trout almondine and petrale sole and scallops and halibut? Oh come on that’s a no-brainer. Ramem. Pasta primavera. Lasagna. BBQ ribs. A frickin HAMBURGER. The potential is limitless.
2018 TERMINIM Cepages d’Or MS/RS/PB/VG 52/22/12/12 Alder Springs Vyd Mendocino Co. 13.5