Chunky monkey funk doesn’t even wait for the fruit-lovers to get out of the way. It’s all crushed hay and wet boards and wasp nests and far in the background a sweet marinara cherry with a slim side of chocolate. And the package agrees with this: still-deep ruby with even some pinking going on at the rim. Clear and bright, density approaching opaque, but only over 1″ deep. Beautiful crisper-vege fog covers the whole thing–and it’s a thick coating: running up a shear cliff of stone on one side and bringing sausage and moldy oranges back down with it–only parting after deep breaths to reveal that cherry and cola belief.

Does this winery still exist? His wife poured for me at Hospice du Rhone last year but really didn’t go into alot of biz-talk. I’m going to guess and say it keeps going. Such an iconic brand. And these wines were NOT expensive. I see I also purchased this at WineHound in Santa Barbara, which is also gone.

Oh but then you taste it, and the amount of wonderfulness the nose *hinted* at is compounded by this un-quantifiable density of fruit flavors. But it does it so lightly, so ethereally, so perfectly devoid of heat or awkward angles or even ridiculous acidity or tannin. One of those wines like Cigare Volant that you just never forget. Apple-blossom and rose hip introduce almond extract and burnt rubber before match-head abrasiveness perfectly chimes in on the chubby berry strung on gossamer threads.

This wine fights you a tiny bit. It always has for me. Again: kinda like Le Cigare Volante. A wine with so much personality. And still… that funky shit in the nose chugs on. Propped up by intense citrus minerality, fruit all #babyyoda doe-eyed and waiting. Structure a heroin-barb poised. Wait. Did I just re-write this review? This wine deserves it.

2013 KUNIN “Pape*Star” GR/MV/SY 43/29/23 Central Coast California 14.3

www.kuninwines.com