ATTENTION MINERAL LOVERS. This is your wine. Gritty and grainy from the get-go, the nose pulls a white version of petrichor straight at you–a little bit woody and muddy, no fruit to speak of at low temperatures, as it warms, a blushing buttery bride emerges, carrying a little Crenshaw and primavera with her.
In the mouth, slate calves off itself in big chunks of wet, chalky stone. Sharp middle-ground grinds a steely stake into the turf, piercingly hot, greased around the edges, making it all slide in easily. Sharp in the finish, a glorious bitter and glare.
An Albarino that–for the first time for me–crosses over between a light joyful white and a deeply disturbed white–brooding and concentrated. Light and ethereal–with a side of cellar floor–in the nose; something that would give Chenin or Chablis a run on the palate–finishing almost tannic. It manages to couple the best of both worlds, something that already has my mind reeling as to the endless food possibilities.
2018 HERZOG ‘Special Reserve’ Albarino Edna Valley California 13.5