Coupla odd birds here rampin up #roséseason headed into a beautiful Memorial Day weekend (I honestly didn’t realize this until today). A Flame Tokay from a new producer highlighting some of the forgotten historical varieties of California winemaking legacy in modern, clean versions, and a Corvina from Bardolino, which has taken great strides lately to streamline rosé production away from classical saignée and cloying offerings into bright, dry, acidic, purpose-crushed bottles able to perform astonishingly well against the finest examples of Grenache from Provence.
Tokay almost orange, a creamy antique nose of golden cherries and notes of Juicy Fruit gum and a bit gamy–highlighting its alcoholic meanderings.
Chiaretto far more classic rosé, perfect onion-skin with gobs of floral and cellar-floor around pretty lychee fruit. Barnyard rounds everything off in the mineralific nose.
The American hits you with mellow amber nectar, subdued and victorian-sherry in its luscious fruit attack. Blind, it almost tastes like a really thin Pinot, though it doesn’t smell like one at all. It really comes off red-wine-ish in the mouth–there’s a seriousness to the depth and breadth of it bringing woody and cherry-fruited flavors right up to a nice bitter tannic finish.
The Italian hits you with a bracing spritz of jolting watermelon and strawberry addled with copious acidity. The pillar of dense body and the pedestal of glycerin-y filling carries the chagrin of steely focus to new heights of rosé conversation.
These are both gorgeous rosés, SOOOO different. The organic Corvina hitting notes only the finest, most geeky-est blushes aspire to; The skin-contact Tokay a hipster delight, chalky and antique, mouth-filling and robust. Find them if you can.
2018 SABELLI-FRISCH Flame Tokay Mokelumne California 12.6
2019 CANTINA GORGO Corvino Chiaretto Bardolino Veneto Italy 12.5