My favorite of all the GSM’s from this producer, the Adams Ranch delivers that smoky goodness, all the stemmy green verve, and does it all wrapped around a core of bubble-gum fruit. Sweaty and salty on the initial pour, with air the latex and diesel ebb and flow across a gummy, muddy flat, detritus strewn about, a crease of barnyard slashing dully through sharp layers of blackberry and plum, tapenade and Roquefort providing plenty of balance for the thick berry. You’re gonna wanna give this one plenty of time to open up–and not because it is closed in or tight on opening, but because you are missing out on the stacks of perfumed floral and decadent fruit if you pull-n-pour.
In the mouth, absolute perfection. Wine like this is actually kinda hard to write about, as it hits on so many crazy levels–with SO much going on–the mind reels. Strongbad etches his voice into your palate, Tom Waits backing, Dylan rhyming, the whole thing so jarringly syncopated, each line flowing miraculously into the next: making a hook you can’t quit. The raw fruit toys with Jolly Rancher, but carries on with FAR more intelligence: the depth of smoke, sigh of acid, stroke of tannin, and fiery deliverance of all the tiny pieces-parts make monumental puddles in unmentionable places.
And still that nose powers on. Suffocating. Ripe. Delirious with funk and joy. You’ll want to taste it eyes closed. Let the vibe overcome you. Let it CONTROL you. Try to wipe the grin off your face.
2017 LEDGE ‘Adams Ranch Vineyard’ GSMR 46/51/1/2 Willow Creek District Paso Robles 14.8