Dark, dense ruby with still-purple edges and a bit of sediment. A nose shockingly acidic–ALL Italian–but rife with the sort of concentration typically reserved for New World wines. Chubby banana and sweet melon absolutely jam-packed with a trove of pie-spice, honey, and warm sunny soil. Clean funk brings a sort of barnyard-peat to the mix, all buried under brambly rich berry.
Only half Sangiovese, and I’ve never had a straight Colorino (that I know of) so I can’t really judge the qualities this half of the mix brings to the party. It’s intense. It is nasal-clogging. Rich beyond proportions, begging for a decant, and here headed into 6 years old, not wavering a bit.
Crazy clean and bright on the palate. Freight-train acidity charges through from tip-to-finish, not so much getting in the fruit’s way, but being hauled along by it. Chewy glamour and the most-elegant of berry representations provide a mouth-feel almost beyond comprehension. Dusty velvet provide topping for the concentration, morphing seamlessly into a tannin-acid font you want to throw all your money into and then bathe in.
Every time I drink one of these wines, I get wowed again. Every one I think will be my new favorite from this label. Every one pushes the last one out of line for the award. These wines ARE available in the United States. They will take a bit of a search, but they’re here. Just splendid. Easily some of the best modern interpretations of Sangio I have tasted. This is one needing–BEGGING for–another decade EASY in the cellar. Buy a case: drink one every two years. You’re welcome.
2014 POGGIO LA NOCE ‘Paonazzo’ 50/50 Sangiovese/Colorino IGT Toscano Italy 14.0