Fiano in California??? Yup, it’s a thing. And hopefully gets bigger. Just like a blast back to Italy, this vibrant white packs the glass with nuance. A bit green and abrasive in the nose–after you get past the flower-shop concentration of floral–just enough to let the calm smoky fruit slide by on rails of graphite and dust. Really complex nose, packed with dirty positivity and eager peach.
In the mouth, ALL that yummy fruit comes to life. Tasting this reminds me of why I like Gewurztraminer so much. Bright lychee, plum and sweet strawberry float graciously on nectarine beds, crisp acidity balancing the voluptuous middle and finish. Thick and nice in flavor-profile and delicate in every other way, fruit approaching near-candy-like proportions but serious as a heart-attack.
This wine is not messin around. Not your chubby oak-ridden housewife white but thankfully also not a screaming shrill thing that will take the paint off your car. It’s beautiful in every way and I have to say: Good job Paso. Quite possibly one of the world’s most perfect white wines.
2019 BROKEN EARTH WINERY Fiano Paso Robles 13.1
Stephen McConnell 