One of my favorite labels to visit when I am traveling up in Mendocino along the coast–and by *visit* I don’t mean actually physically GO to the winery, of course, I mean select from wine-shop and restaurant lists. Quite easy to find up in Ft. Bragg and such–rarely seen down here on the Central Coast. Finding this the other day in a local store created massive sparkles in my eyes.
Deep beautiful clear ruby, no bricking at all. Big heady floral nose, ripe and opulent, gobs of leathery texture alongside the dark cherry and a redwood-tinged base-line. Thick, rich bouquet: total ripeness without the conflicts of heat or ridiculous concentration marring the deliciousness. But let’s taste it.
Full and round, not miraculously expressive, actually quite thin. Beautiful refreshing liquid with–like the nose–no outliers to detract from the slim balance. Fruit dank and bitter, heavily tinged in red-dirt and pitchy flora, it’s easy to imagine a hillside vineyard glowing in afternoon California sunshine but washed regularly in dense, moist air. Calm and focused over the middle and completely into the finish, it’s just a solid, solid Syrah, steady and direct with very little patina showing at 9. Light tannins, not getting the way of the shy berry, it is a gritty little powerhouse of understatement.
2011 MEYERS FAMILY CELLARS Syrah Yorkville Highlands Mendocino Co. California 12.7
Stephen McConnell 