Big round rotund plummy concentrate full of the things fairly commonplace in this variety–bitter dusty floral, black fruits border-lining on raisin, jammy heat and power–and I suppose all of these things need to remain standard. This one takes the Zinfandel theme a step farther down the *expected* aisle and frames the fruit in an electrical-fire sort of green ire and a dog-park shock of funky briar. It all makes for a big, in-your-face offering cloying and heat-ridden, very little fresh or bright to find, save perhaps the metallic tannins desperately trying to rise above the burn in the finish.

As zinfandels go, I will say the same thing I said a year ago about this wine: It pushes all the buttons people have come to expect from this variety, just a year later, some of them have become caricature.

2017 T-VINE Zinfandel Bacigalupi Vyd Russian River Valley 14.7


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