Continuing on with the world’s smallest book: PINOT FROM PASO, this little dinger is not the usual suspects of Windward, Adelaida, or Jack Creek, but far over on the East side and available for a steal at most local decent groceries with a line-up of Pomar Junction on the shelf. I don’t know why I have this bottle, nor do I know why I have kept it so long, I opened it expecting something rotund and weird and far past its prime. That was not to be.
Nice light garnet with a pinkish core and ambering edge, the nose vaguely pinot-ish with light cherry and lighter barnyard-y nuances, smoky velvet and crushed floral–everything modest and delicious-smelling.
This is not anything a serious pinot-phile is going to wax poetic about or any burg-freak will shake a stick at, but I’m pretty sure that’s not what the winery was going for here. Pomar produces mid-tier wines from their depth of varieties well-made and affordable. Light and acidic, it is just an easy-drinking wine–even at 10. Sure, it’s pinot–there’s no mistaking that–but it is not Meomi or Beringer Founder’s Reserve. It is also not *hot* or *flabby*–things that affect MOST of Paso’s wines and ESPECIALLY any attempt at Pinot. Easy cola, hesitant cherry fills out the full fruit somewhat fading at this juncture. Green-brier and still-vibrant tannin etch the finish, with everything bright and lively–no tertiary at ALL.
Cheap, old, pinot is something that will pop up frequently on these pages, mostly because I love a deal and then they get forgotten in the cellar. Often, they turn out badly, as I have waited far too long to enjoy them. This is not one of those situations. This is a beautiful wine, soft and easy, lovely to drink–something NO ONE at a party would pour out or wrinkle their nose at. I wouldn’t let this sit around in the cellar this long–again: no one intended this–but it has survived stunningly, despite being from somewhere no one should grow Pinot.
If I were looking for a short-term, low-priced, easy-drinking bottle of red to crowd-please, THIS would def be a contender.
2010 POMAR JUNCTION Pinot Noir Paso Robles 13.6
Stephen McConnell 