This one definitely takes you back to the old country. Funky, but surely not dull in the nose, greenbriar and pine rosin masking most identifiable berry, leaving the dankness of cellar and the haze of barnyard to fend for themselves in an almost stemmy sort of piquantness. The fruit is in there, it’s just a dark, ripe–and I hate to use this word, but–Zinfandel-ish type of thin plum and chocolate-port-berry. But it isn’t effusive with the fruit as something from California would typically be. It’s a bit shy, smelling much more of watery mineral–honestly a stellar companion to the Old World edges. In a lot of ways, it reminds me of my recent voyage into Arizona wines. It’s definitely ripe, but there’s a welcome thin-ness to it–pulling its punches from the NO HOLDS BARRED style of wine it seems everybody is California is shooting for. I can’t wait to taste it.
In the mouth, the light–almost Garnacha-ish–transparent ruby becomes a fitting visual. The entry is delicate and poised, bright blossomy floral, spring water and cheery cranberry wash themselves gradually toward a stronger, pithy core of concentration and structure. A vibrant, acid-driven wine, playful and joyous, meal-ready: probably just about anything you could throw at it. Tannins are gentle–FAR more attention is gained here by the acidic rasp. Still, there is a chunk of structure, green visions melded semi-perfectly into the fruit that shows itself in the finish with far more grit than the mouthfeel suggested.
A very interesting wine. A good wine. Not a wine you will ever find in California. Clean and beautiful and meaningful with nary an ounce of fat. A true 1% wine. These wines are getting so easy to find in the US now: there’s NO reason to not experience them.
2016 TERRA MADRE ‘Komarna’ Plavac Mali Dalmatia Croatia 14.0