Overthinking Oregon

A beautiful, clean rendition of Pinot. Clear, light ruby with a wide clear edge. Ripe to almost California standards, the dark cherry and fabulous earthy fruit churns out of the nose, restrained though. Musky barnyard plays a huge part, but clasped together with dull mint and aged leather for a full round bouquet experience, captivatingly light and un-slutty, while still getting its point across.

This brand has garnered lower-shelf bargain Oregon pinot shelf-space here in California at numerous major wine retailers, for reasons I have not experienced but can only imagine. But this is something different: a single vineyard bottling from an esteemed locale, and speaking in subtle ways to the true Pinot connoisseur. Decanted heavily–something I rarely do for Pinot–but here I felt ridiculous amounts of air would benefit. I was not wrong.

In the mouth, the light fragrantness of the nose translates seamlessly. Sharp and pointed, it points to something needing far more cellar-time to fully blossom. The concentrated berry glides on ethereal wings of acid and thin un-assuming goodness. Match-head, cedar-box crustiness polishes the middle, the grainy dark fruit providing perfect juxtaposition to the searing acid. The finish comes around in full, un-apologetic concentration, but still, it never overwhelms, staying true to self-effacing pinot subtlety and grandeur in miniscule portions of finesse and decadence despite the young age and roiling structure. Bitter and green in the finish, sharp edges teaching you things about the under-stated entry only time will elevate.

An absolute tour de force from Oregon and a bottling you need to seek out despite the plethora of $9 supermarket offerings from this label.

2018 PORTLANDIA Pinot Noir Momtazi Vineyard Willamette Valley Oregon 14.1


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