Trying to guess the dominant varieties in GSM is always fun. Of course, the classical motivation for this moniker was CdP, where they ARE Grenache-proud and typically follow that order. We all have seen wineries attempt to modify the initials to suit their blend, but SMG is a transmission and MSG is synthesized umami and SGM just doesn’t flow off the tongue. So GSM has stuck around, though rarely in the new world is Grenache dominant. This one has a garnet edge hinting at GR, but the ruby core tells another story. Rubber boot and peanut-butter cookie in the nose, the classic spicy-oiled-salty tapenade a trademark. It feels a tad oxidized, the fruit dull and round, lying low and calm in the grand pool of savory funk.
Tasting it again reinforces the SY strengths, but I am feeling in might be close to 30/30/30 in blend. The dirty funk of Mourvedre speaks clearly, the thin distinction of Grenache is apparent, and the plummy fruit of Syrah is quite restrained–almost non-existant. Peppery nougat and dusty warmth prevail, a chalky sort of anise under-pinning elevating the interest and introducing the acid and tannin goal-keepers. A frequent complaint of mine about GSM and often even CdP is that individuality has been blended out. Though this wine has trouble getting off its feet in terms of pure power or congealed magic, the components are charming in their visibility. I think Grenache is the smallest group of the three, as the deft fingers of Mourvedre have ran up the back of my neck a couple times here and can’t be ignored. Can’t wait for the label reveal. It’s a lovely wine–easy drinking and showing geeky possibilities here and there, not too polished, not too smoooooth, not too homogenated. Round and full–almost sweet–it fills a nice spot between some of Paso’s blockbuster syrups and France’s funky Medinas.
2015 POMAR JUNCTION ‘Crossing’ GSM SY/MV/GR 44/34/22 Paso Robles 14.2
Stephen McConnell 