Probably one of the nicest all-around pinots I’ve had this year. Yeah… it’s only February… But oh boy is it beautiful from start-to-finish. Gorgeous dark ruby–no garnet to speak of–pink at the edge and positively GUSHING fruit. A stunning, clean bright nose, rich and darkly-berried, funk a seamless thread of earth and crisp straw: showing an almost California-esque lack of barnyard. Slightly green and edgy, more of a citrus zest on round cellar-floor with deep, sweet curls of oak and briar.
Tasting it brings a near-speechless pause. Nothing juts out. Cherry and boysenberry laid on slabs of icy granite, cool water between the stones, the absolute perfection of transition from rich fruit to abrasive structure is seamless and astonishing. Ridiculous minerality dries out the late-middle, grinding bitter into pores swollen with smooth injections. The green grip awakens and energizes all sensors, fruit never ONCE letting go its death-grip on your palate. So dark. So complex. So unabashedly elegant and delicious.
This wine somewhat reminds me of Brian Loring’s Pinots from California: dark in color, great typicity, varietally correct, not succumbing to rash concentration, sweetness or oak, but unassuming, relatively inexpensive PILLARS of bottled Pinot. Not trying too hard, balanced beyond comprehension, powerful tannins and lovely to drink: now AND in a decade. Find this wine. Buy as much as you can afford. Drink it now and save some for later. Wines like this are rare and timeless. Pour them for your die-hard CA-Pinot friends and watch their reaction.
2016 DOMAINE JACQUES GIRARDIN Clos Rousseau 1er cru Santenay France 13.0