Fruit Mirage

Cheap burg is often a disappointment, but this little dinger packs a wallop. Garnet thru & thru, running deeper ruby at the core and ruddy amber at the rim. All your match-head, cedar-box, tilled-loam dreams come true in the nose: it’s a sharp abrasive lil thing, rougher than a Home Depot lumber cart, the fruit showing teensy oxidation in the nose–I think a culprit of poor storage–but not enough to forfeit the testimony of it: willowy and bright, sharp with pie-cherry, fleshy with persimmon, polished like Robitussin. The weedy briar balances the fleshiness of the fruit in unexplainable–Burgundian–ways.

A Vitamin C coating greets the entry, causing immediate reflection on potential fruit. The fruit is a watery spectre in the near-background, sharp and pithy, some dirty secrets to dredge up, bitter bark and grapefruit minerality the perfect zest to an already thin package teetering on a burnt-ish background. Ridiculous tannins: a mouthwash of structure at first off-putting, but then you start to *feel* the things the fruit is telling you through it all.

I’m actually not quite sure what a “Maranges premier cru” is. And it doesn’t say the wine is 1er cru: just the appellation. So hey… not super curious but I guess I’m going to have to study up on this one. I’ve had these whites before, this is my second experience with their pinot–and I’ve had Maranges before, but it was a Gamay. If you’re not expecting a huge california-ish ripe-fest, this wine delivers a TON of Burg. The tannin needs to take a shyness lesson from the fruit though. That’s my only wish.

2013 THOMAS MOREY ‘Maranges La Fussiere’ Marange Bourgogne France 13.0

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