Full disclosure: Prado Enea is my favorite Muga. I love the funk and old-world nuances to it and when I taste line-ups of the full roster, the rest of the wines pale in comparison–often heavy-handed oak or ripeness. But pulling this off a resty list tonight, I have to say it really is a fabulous little wine. Ruby-black and pink-edged, candied cherry and blackberry flow flush off the nose, a new-world cleanness and forthrightness of fruit clearly to be a winner in California among consumers. Milk chocolate and polished leather–supple and sweet–gobs of briar waiting in the wings: spicy and dusty over the chunky fruit.
An entry instantly concentrated of berry and bulk is offset early on by robust acidity. Charming cinnamon, nutmeg, rose-petals and caramel lay a smooth foundation while sharp angst bites in at every angle. Delicious, actually: there is no other word for it, with oak feeling almost American in its non-event and peppery presence. A slight barnyardy middle confirms *old world* but it remains clean and focused right into the friendly tannins.
A restaurant-list stunner, one not going to break the bank and will woo everyone at the table.
2016 BODEGAS MUGA Tempranillo ‘Reserva’ Rioja Spain 14.5
Stephen McConnell 