A foamy, creamy beauty, hardly feeling like a red sparkler at all. Loyal followers know I am not particularly keen on red bubbles: still traumatized from the rise of sparkling Shiraz in the 90’s; I have never quite wrapped my tongue around Lambrusco; and various Cab-Franc pet-nat offerings from natty-hipster in the past few years have left their mark. But this doesn’t feel like that. Light rose and milky with generous initial spritz, it settles down into a rather elegant glass–characterized in the nose by slight cidery nuances but rich tropical and floral fruit. Dusty and dry-smelling, there are no odd angles protruding, and while no one is going to mistake it for fine Champagne or California methode, it has the elegance and cleanliness to sooth any ill-feelings you have toward pet-nat.
Delicious to drink, rich strawberry fruit exudes from every bubble, massaged by creamy leather and salinity. Sharp and acidic, it fairly buzzes with life and excitement, peachy brilliance at each visit. Sharp and biting in the finish, a tangy postlude to the vibrant mouthfeel. Nicely done. VERY nicely done. Clean and effusive, it maintains all the buttery sophistication you demand from a sparkler, while portraying a zesty new take on the class.
2020 DOWN THE RABBIT HOLE Obsidian Wine Co. ‘Pezsgo’ Pinot Noir Poseidon Vyd Carneros Sonoma Pet Nat 11.7
Stephen McConnell 