This is an odd wine. Clear garnet in the glass, bricked all the way through. Big, round chubby nose of cherry headed pruney–but not oxidized–just flabby and one-dimensionally sweet and rotund. A bit of saline barnyard slides in, a dog-park sort of ooze lacking foundation, accentuated by oak. This is a wine probably a lot of people would find fabulous, a wine I am tempted to say “I could sell END-CAPS of this stuff”. It’s a crowd-pleasing sort of direct ripeness, un-encumbered by nuances the 1% find intriguing and de rigueur with this variety.
In the mouth, light and thin on any areas causing deep consideration. Sweet and full, lacking significant acid, bereft of briar, even the peppery bits we expect are absent. Watery and boring, burnt and glassine, heat fulfils any spicy dreams and tannins are non-existent. Glycerin-y and vapid, the whole package feels contrived and forced–a wine from this otherwise-stellar–and mainly Pinot–label I would prefer to skip. The color is the first clue, and tasting it confirms all suspicions.
2017 HUETT Cabernet Franc Columbia Valley Washington 14.9