Bottle Goals

If you’ve ever had Grand Régnard, you’ll never forget it. WHY will you never forget it? Because you can spot the bottle from across town. It is packaging you will never forget, and is it a little over-the-top? Probably. Is it *more show than go*? Possibly. But it is also good wine, something you can rely on year after year when it pops up on a list. It is also not expensive–which obviously plays into those who argue the container MUST be compensating for lackluster contents. But hats off to them: it’s a bottle–and label–you will remember forever. So in this case, I give them a *pass*. I don’t think I have a slot in my cellar it would fit in, and I certainly wouldn’t want to stack them.

Pale canary in the glass, a creamy, milky nose touched with briar and grassy minerality. Newsprint and India ink provide a counter-point to subdued tropical and shy floral, dog-piss and apple. Nary a touch of oak on it–not even any old-world neutral-barrel sensations. It is not overwhelming in bouquet: clean, bright, and steadfastly pure. Quite unassuming, especially coming from a package SCREAMING luxury.

In the mouth, delicate and stream-lined. Rather unconcentrated, and–in contrary to the packaging–quite un-luxurious. But it is a beautiful wine, ALL Chardonnay: no winemaking frills INSIDE the bottle clouding the varietal purity and focus. Light and juicy, almond and apricot and tart apple in strictly controlled portions ply along a grassy trail, chalky acidity ushering a dry finish of slight tannin. Nothing earth-shattering about this wine: but I love it.

2018 RÉGNARD ‘Grand Régnard’ Chablis France 12.5

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