Impenetrable ruby-purple right out to a miniscule rim. Intensely colored and glass-staining. Full and rich in the nose, gobs of concentrated berry stewed down into almost syrupy thickness, but falling into redeeming slots of green vibrancy, crushed gravel, and minty-berry glamour. Abrasive chalkiness lies deep in, covered almost completely by muddy mint and brash green wood. Everything points to a ridiculously well-made Cabernet probably pretty delicious, but with YEARS to go.
In the mouth, the *years to go* part introduces itself early on. Chewy on entry–though not eye-rollingly thick–clean pure sour-cherry see-saws against massive blackberry for domination over the chalk and ire of structure. Pomegranate seed brings up pithy angst among all the spicy briar and rich fruit, drying out the mouthfeel in pure, classic Cabernet splendor. Never cloying, never relying on oak for finesse, never giving an INCH to the fruit-forward necessities of early-rewarding tourist wines, it abrades the mouth with glorious splinters of OOMPH while massaging every pore with deliciousness. The juicy finish barely treads water above the jaws of tannin, the distinctly savory fullness going on for ever and ever.
These are the kinds of cabs from Sonoma I love tasting. Cabs that shame Napa for all its homogenous grandiosity and ridiculous prices. This is absolutely straight-up good Cabernet here, boys & girls. Well made, tons of structure, no sweetness, oak a perfect juxtaposition, doesn’t insult you, and frankly: damn delicious.
2015 MASTRO SCHEIDT FAMILY CELLARS ‘1-T-L’ Cabernet Sauvignon Dry Creek Valley Sonoma Co. 14.5
Stephen McConnell 