Cowlick

Medium garnet with definite ruddiness at the rim. Clean, pure pinot funk and nuance flows easily from the glass, sharp chalky mineralific shards cutting the ripe cherry and moldy fruit-basket with plentiful graphite, cedar dust and muddy cured green olive meat. Not effusively fruited–and at the same time not ridiculously Burgundish, it manages a low-profile even keel transported on a base of wet newsprint and garden-hose water.

Tasting it reveals a rather one-dimensional wine, sharp and bitter: peppery and heated, the light cherry thinning to nothingness in the middle and overwhelmed throughout by a structural component rather out-of-its-league. The argument for tannin exists–brash and abrasive as it is–as it overtakes the late-center and finish with straight orange-zest and green walnut skins. The light berry and pleasant plum and strawberry linger respectfully in the shadows, never caving in completely to the rash of raw briar-sap, but not offering much in terms of complexity. The fruit is round and simple, and the acid and tannin ridiculously off-the-charts in the opposite direction, creating a wine torn between two masters. It would be very interesting to taste this on release. It would be very interesting to taste this in 10 years. At 5, I am forced to call it awkward and unbalanced. And I honestly don’t think the 10-year thing is gonna work out well for you.

2015 HALLECK VINEYARDS ‘Hillside Cuvee’ Pinot Noir Sonoma Coast 14.3

https://halleckvineyard.com/

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