69

God, these are gorgeous wines. Weird label; weird name; weird story… But oh man! This one’s *just* starting to settle down, showing a bit of ruddiness at the edge and core–still fairly black and impenetrable in body. Leathery, voluptuous nose, ridiculous concentration of berry and briar, an engaging savory perfume elegant and refined–but with a woodsy, peaty edge just glowing with chocolate frosting and coffee-cake.

Haven’t opened one of these for a while, so here’s a refresher: This is JCP Maltus’–of Chateau Teyssier and Le Dome fame–foray into the Napa Valley market. From foggy memory, I believe this one is a good chunk of Stagecoach with bits of Rutherford and Carneros added. There’s five or six of them–all with the same rather boring label and odd names derived from vague musical somethings… The 2013 vintage in Napa needs no introduction, and this one shows all the glory a great year can portray. At only 7, I’m thrilled I have several more, but–like the stance I take on ALL “Vintages of the Decade”–I don’t think it’s a 20-year wine. There’s just too much fun up front.

More mind-numbing deliciousness on the palate, but the fleshy roundness of the bouquet is nowhere to be found, and the thing turns into a chalky, gritty, abrasive machine where chunks of fruit lie like a monster under explosive structure. The cherry is thick and reduced, still carrying seedy distinction along its acidic frame. Gravel and grime join the pith in a pore-clogging charade as impossible to wipe off as the smile on your face. A tannic heart beats below, finally over-taking the mouthfeel, with the fruit keeping up impossibly.

Not sure World’s End is still in production, but you run into them occasionally. When you DO, grab them.

2013 WORLD’S END ‘If Six Was Nine’ Cabernet Sauvignon Napa Valley 14.5

http://www.maltus.com/en/

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